The Cloche and Mushy Peas

"The monstrous reign of the cloche, dismissed by Vogue as 'alike as two million peas', was finished.  What replaced it was a giddy parade of styles.  Beginning around 1935, hats brandished spectacular trims, blinding colors, awe-inspiring or just plain silly shapes."  -hats, a stylish history and collector's guide, by Jody Shields

The cloche shape was extremely popular all through the 1920's.  It did project a particular image and I could see how women were ready for a change after a decade of small close fitting hats.  The outlandish hats of the 1930's allowed women to explore new silhouettes and different hairstyles.  No more as 'alike as two million peas' in a pod.

Two million peas.  That is a lot of peas.  I would bet that they eat at least two million peas a year in the England.  I found a new appreciation of peas during my two recent visits to the U.K.  We were at the counter of an outdoor cafe where all the fast cooking was being done and the cook kept serving up side after side of mushy peas.  Since they seemed so popular I asked what she added to the peas.  Compound butter and triple cream.  She kind of laughed when she said it.  They were delicious.  My recipe is a tiny bit lighter, I use a dollop of creme fraiche instead of the triple cream.

Mushy Peas


8 oz. frozen peas
1 tbs. compound butter
1-2 tbs. creme fraiche
1-2 tbs. freshly grated Parmagiano-Reggiano
1/2 tsp. salt


compound butter;  Mix 4 oz. softened butter with 1 tsp. finely chopped mint, 1 tsp. finely chopped parsley, 1 tsp. fresh thyme leaves, and 1 tsp. finely chopped chives.  Roll into a 1 1/2" log in cling film and chill.  Slice it as needed when cold.

Cook the peas in salted water for 3-5 minutes until tender and still very green.  Drain and put into a small food processor.  You can also mash them with a potato masher for a rougher texture.  Add the compound butter, 1 tbs. each of the creme fraiche and cheese, and salt. Puree or mash together.  Taste and add more creme fraiche or cheese if needed.

I still do like a cloche shaped hat, after all that experimenting with crazy shapes, it survives and is as reliable as mushy peas.

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