Bill Cunningham and Poached Fish

"As a kid I would go to church and all I did was look at the women's hats."

As a grown-up, Bill Cunningham had a career for a few years as a milliner.  He was fascinated by hats, and although he said he didn't make a lot of money, he paid his bills and had a lot of fun.  I want to share this video of some of his hats and his narration about being a milliner.  I especially love his humor about the origami hat.  Folds flat for packing.

I guess it has always been a tough career choice.  And Mr. Cunningham was making hats in the days when everyone wore hats.  I have not made a lot of money, but I, like Mr. Cunningham have paid my bills, fed the children and am still having fun.  I too have been fascinated by hats since I was a child.  I remember sitting with my sister in the hat department at Hale's department store when I was very young, just looking at the the hats while my mother did her shopping.  That is where I wanted to be.  We never touched anything so we were never asked to leave, and I would imagine wearing all the beautiful hats.

I still visit any hat store or hat department whenever I can.  I am also drawn to the fish counter with the same enthusiasm.  I love fish and spent several years learning all kinds of cooking techniques.  One summer it was all about poaching.  I was having a big dinner party and a young man who was in culinary school at the time came into my kitchen and said, "No one poaches fish any more."  I answered, "Well I am and if you keep stomping around my kitchen, I can't see if the water is barely shimmering, or if it is because of your heavy footsteps shaking the floor."  I think he ended up enjoying his meal despite his rather rude observation.


Poached Halibut or Salmon

serves 2-4 people

2-1" thick halibut or salmon steaks
spring or filtered water to barely cover the steaks
1/2 cup white wine or dry vermouth
1 bay leaf
4 lemon slices
1/2 tsp. salt


Check the fish steaks for any small bones and remove them. Leave the big center bone in.  In a shallow non-reactive pan combine the rest of the ingredients to make the poaching liquid.  Bring to a shimmer just below a simmer, no bubbles, you should just see the water shaking a little.  Place the fish in the liquid and maintain the shimmer, it is a very gentle cooking method, No boiling!  Poach for 8 minutes per inch.  Remove the fish to a platter. When it has cooled a little you can carefully remove the rest of the bones and the skin before serving.


The fish can be topped with all sorts of salsas or sauces.  In
the summer I make a corn salsa with fresh cooked corn, cilantro and some finely diced radish.  One of my son's favorite toppings were leeks that had been braised in cream.  A little basil or parsley pesto is also delicious.


It is also a good cooking method if you are planning on making fish cakes.  Especially my crispy rice fish cakes.

Try this method and be creative with your toppings, think of it like embellishing a hat!

To see the latest collection of Zazu & Violets' hats, please visit our on-line Etsy shop.